72HRKIT - 2008 Sandstorm 34ft 5th Wheel Toy Hauler

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We love the blue upholstery, and the giant bay window. The television cabinet with the stock 13 inch television that Forrest River included with this toy hauler is just crying out for an LCD HDTV upgrade!

dogen

dogen.bak

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When we park the little Mazda in front, people double-take a lot wondering if that little truck could really pull that trailer. We really pull it with our 1999 Ford F-350 7.3L diesel with upgraded transmission cooler and 3-way gauge kit (Pyro, turbo boost, transmission temperature).

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1000 lb. capacity ramp in the back.

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From inside the bedroom, looking toward the shower.

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Master bedroom, extended out

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Control panel and monitors (battery, generator, fuel tanks, water heater; fresh, gray, black water levels)

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We opted for the extra dinette in the rear, with a queen-sized bunk above it. When raised all the way up, there's 5-6 feet of head room for the machines.

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Excellent fridge and freezer.

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We love the storage loft above the kitchen.

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We really like the pull-out pantry.

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I created this simplified schematic diagram to better understand the electrical system of the toy hauler.

The auxilliary battery and 1500 Watt inverter are not stock -- I added them.

The distribution panel is an American Converter CS6000XL-3. The 30 Amp 120V AC Transfer switch is hiding on the back of the distribution panel.

We upgraded to the 5500 Watt Onan generator.

All of the high-current 12V systems continue to function with the "battery disconnect" switch open (jacks, pop-out, etc), but, obviously, the switch must be closed for the 12V converter to charge the batteries. It takes hours (days?) to properly charge the deep cycle batteries (I haven't yet measured the charging algorithm of the CS6000XL, but in steady-state it idles at 13.6V). We will likely add a 120W or so solar panel to the roof to keep them topped off when shore power is not available.

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I created this simplified schematic of the fresh water system.

I added the winterization bypass valve. Disclaimer: since I'm an EE, valves represented as switches allow current flow when they are closed, instead of open. The diode symbols represent check valves.

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This schematic shows the fresh water system configuration for the winterization procedure. The 10 gallon water heater is drained by removing the anode. I open the pressure relief valve for quicker draining.

It takes about 2 gallons of antifreeze to winterize. The winterization kit was after-market.

I disconnect the pump 12V power at the pump, and then flip the pump switch on inside the trailer. That way, I can turn the pump on and off at the pump, to get the procedure started.

I've been told that the fresh water filter element must be removed prior to winterizing. But, obviously, the filter casing must be in place to allow the system to pressurize with antifreeze, as each faucet and valve are purged of air or water. I start by flushing the red and blue drains.

I've heard that propylene glycol, while biodegradable, is corrosive, and should not be used inside the water heater. But who'd want waste another 10 gallons of antifreeze to fill the water heater tank?

I flush the spray port by inserting its hose adapter to open the valve.